Day 1: 16km Mangawhai to Pakiri Beach
Day 2: 11.5km to Matakana Valley Road
Day 3: 18km to a campsite near Dome Valley
Day 4: 7.5km to Nanakoti Homestay near Puhoi
Day 5: 18km to Puhoi Village and a drive to Orewa
Day 6: 4.5km to Silverdale then bus to Auckland City
Total days on the trail: 27
Total 580km out of 3000km
Aunty Karen kindly took us through Mangawhai to the start of the beach walk to Pakiri. We had a fantastic rest day with her and Glens Uncle and were ready to go again. The weather was iffy, but that actually made walking the beach a bit easier. We didnt go very far before we reached Te Arai point. Plenty of surfers out, but only 1 other hiker, an older French man. We stopped for a quick chat with him then carried on up and over the point through some forest and down onto the beach again. Then it was about 12km to the end.
After about 5km we hit a stream crossing, which, unfortunately for us was right on high tide. We thought we still had an hour or so, but actually it was in as much as it was going to be. The waves were flowing in and the estuary part was filling super quick. I felt a bit panicky and as I wanted to get through before it got any higher I started across where the river met the ocean. I could feel myself getting bashed by the waves and then Glen yelled at me to come back (too gungho apparently) and as my camera was still on the outside of my pack I figured he was probably right. A young German couple caught up to us at this point and the tall guy just walked right across! He left his girlfriend behind though who came back with us. Once Captain Safety (Glen) was satisfied everything was 100% watertight, we decided to try again. It did reach my waist and a big wave almost got me, but we made it. The German girl also made it across, but only because her partner jumped back in to help with her pack.
Lunch was more salami wraps on the safe side of the river and then more beach walking. Weirdly, there were about 20 dead blue penguins all along this beach. They all looked mostly whole so it's a bit of a mystery as to why they had all washed up...will have to do some investigation on this as was quite sad. Finally we arrived at another river crossing, but right on the other side was the campground. This time I could feel the current and it was very strong. We watched the Germans and the French man cross further upstream and although deep, it looked safe enough. Seems like a strange thing to be nervous about, but when you have a weighted pack on, it's actually quite hard to find your balance. We got across this one with only thigh deep water, although I'm sure I almost got sucked into a quicksand bog at one point!
Ice-creams and a cabin for the night at Pakiri campground as the weather had been threatening rain again. Turned out to be a stunner of an evening of course, and about another 9 hikers turned up over the afternoon. We met Courtney a fellow kiwi who we swapped blogs with. She was lovely and it was great to have a decent chat with a fellow New Zealander. A couple of hikers turned up quite late and it makes you wonder whether its a ploy to get out of paying. If no one is in the office, how can you stop a hiker strolling in late? I realise everyone is doing their own walk, but some hikers seem to be doing all they can to avoid paying to sleep. Camping in the bush/forest/farmland where it has been expressly mentioned not to freedom camp due to various reasons. Not a lot can be done about this I guess, but I do wish people would cough up a bit more for our economy. It's a shame as the TA Trust has put so much effort into this trail, providing all the info needed for hikers to find a cheap place to stop for the night.
Most of the big group headed off super early as they were going all the way through to Dome Valley in one. We just aren't that good yet, so our goal was to go to Matakana Valley Road. Omaha forest was a typical NZ bush walk. We smashed the few kms along the road then up, up, up some steep farmland and along a ridgeline to a steep descent through very slippery, thick mud. "Babies diarrhea" according to Glen. This was slow going for us, as you really have to concentrate and use your entire body to keep yourself upright. Even though a couple of parts were a little hairy, mostly I actually found myself enjoying it....weird I know, but no mud was getting into our boots, so no wet feet and you end up kinda having to just go along with the slide.
Just before we reached Matakana Valley Road, we checked Guthook again and changed our minds about accommodation that night. We were going to camp somewhere along the next few kms on someones front garden offered to hikers, but the weather was turning again and it had been tough on the muscles, so we rang a place called Matakana Outback and got a cabin there instead. There was a shortcut through the bush right to their driveway, which if we had known it would be the steepest downhill of the entire day, we might not have taken. Once there though it was an amazing night of luxury. Their dog Orca kept popping over for cuddles and we had enough of the afternoon sun left to enjoy it and dry our sweaty clothes (so much for that rain). We watched some old Big Bang Theory reruns with dinner then off to bed.
The next day saw the weather turn yuck again. The rain clouds threatened all day, but only the odd shower actually got us through the dense bush. We had our wet weather gear handy just the same. We had a few kms of road walking to do first then off up into another bush section. We chased a wild goat family up the track for a bit then got right into it. I had a goal of getting to the Dome cafe before 5pm when it closed. Glen was dreaming of hot chips and I was drooling over the nachos I was going to have for dinner. Dome Valley walk (or Doom Valley for some) was tough ups and downs with plenty of mud. Nothing quite as thick as the previous day, but we did have 3 massive summits to get through. I even fell over at one point, which was basically inevitable. In some parts the track was well looked after and we could crank up the pace, but uphill slows me down a lot and downhill in mud takes even longer sometimes.
This was actually the first day I felt physically fitter. It was 18km through tough bush and even though we were tired and sore, we really kept up a great pace and I didnt need to stop as much up the hills as I used to. It doesn't take as long for us to recover our breath now either, we can just go and go and go. This made the day better for me. What made it even better though was that we arrived at the cafe at 4pm and even though my dream of nachos was shattered as they had no mince, we shared a ham and cheese toastie and a fisherman's platter YUM! Then, after we finally managed to cross SH1, it was a short 2km walk up to a grassy patch a very kind farmer has built into his front lawn just for TA hikers!
Unfortunately the weather really did pack in at this point and even though we got the tent up just in time, it rained and was super windy all night long. This made for a sleepless night and a cranky Emily the next morning. We relooked at our plan and to avoid camping in rain again, we made a slight change. We walked 7.5km along some road and across a bit of farmland to Nanakoti Homestay where we got a barn apartment for the night. We literally walked into a barn filled with hay bales (uh oh was my first thought), then we were directed upstairs to a fully furnished, beautiful apartment. Not quite a rest day, but a half day instead. Glens ankle was bothering him and I was bothering him so we thought it best to rest while we can. We want to enjoy this experience and with potentially another 5 months to go, we can have the odd treat.
We hung out here all afternoon and the owners Denise and Urs really welcomed us. We even got some chicken and spaghetti from them so I could cook dinner (first time I have had to cook anything other than dehydrated meals!). Once the goats that lived downstairs finished ringing their bells and banging around for the evening, all was quiet and we slept very well.
The next morning we packed up, ate some bacon and eggs that Denise also gave us and then started our last big day of this part of the journey. 18km over Moirs hill and down a couple of different tracks into Puhoi. My good friend Anna was going to meet us there and take us into Orewa for dinner and a night at the campground. Something to look forward to!
We started up a very well formed farm track, but it was uphill again for a few kms and a super humid day. We ended up at the top of Moirs hill for morning tea. Then back down through farmland and paddocks and more paddocks. Out the other side of that rather nice farm, was the third track of the day consisting of the last 5km to Puhoi through bush. I tried very hard to go down the road and stop at the cheese factory instead as the humidity was really getting to me today, but again Glen kept me in check. We crossed a swing bridge (one of many many more to come) and followed the Puhoi walkway up and along the top and then down to the pub.
As usual I was pretty tired by this point, but the track into Puhoi is actually a really nice one. It's a lovely bit of bush and the path is wonderfully maintained! Makes life so much easier when you can look at the scenery, not just where your feet are going. Anna and her husband Jay were already there and after a quick L&P to boost the energy levels, they drove us down into Orewa. Very strange feeling, returning home, but not really as we don't live there anymore....Glen and I showered so we wouldn't have to put Anna and Jay through anymore pain than necessary then sent the men out to hunt and gather dinner. They came back with Sals and it was the best evening sitting in the campground, eating and being with friends after another tough day.
Another good sleep later, we left the cabin and headed into Orewa itself for a couple of errands. We stopped by our old house to visit the neighbour and there is a new family moved in to our house! We both felt very strange all morning and even chatted about finishing the trail here and going back to normal lives! Coming back to your hometown really makes it hard to carry on. But nah, we still have more in us. It was raining nice and steadily, but we walked up to Silverdale to catch the Express bus to Auckland city. A short while later we were checking in to our serviced apartment in central Auckland! As it's my 30th in 3 short days this is a combined birthday and a congratulatory we-made-it-to-Auckland present. Tomorrow I'm visiting my old work buddies and we might even go see a movie!
P.S. - My insoles are AMAZING! I have sore feet every day, but no particular parts of my foot, which means everything is being cushioned nicely now. It is literally like a cloud under my foot and now Glen is super jealous and will be getting a pair himself now we are in Auckland.
Day 4: 7.5km to Nanakoti Homestay near Puhoi
Day 5: 18km to Puhoi Village and a drive to Orewa
Day 6: 4.5km to Silverdale then bus to Auckland City
Total days on the trail: 27
Total 580km out of 3000km
Aunty Karen kindly took us through Mangawhai to the start of the beach walk to Pakiri. We had a fantastic rest day with her and Glens Uncle and were ready to go again. The weather was iffy, but that actually made walking the beach a bit easier. We didnt go very far before we reached Te Arai point. Plenty of surfers out, but only 1 other hiker, an older French man. We stopped for a quick chat with him then carried on up and over the point through some forest and down onto the beach again. Then it was about 12km to the end.
After about 5km we hit a stream crossing, which, unfortunately for us was right on high tide. We thought we still had an hour or so, but actually it was in as much as it was going to be. The waves were flowing in and the estuary part was filling super quick. I felt a bit panicky and as I wanted to get through before it got any higher I started across where the river met the ocean. I could feel myself getting bashed by the waves and then Glen yelled at me to come back (too gungho apparently) and as my camera was still on the outside of my pack I figured he was probably right. A young German couple caught up to us at this point and the tall guy just walked right across! He left his girlfriend behind though who came back with us. Once Captain Safety (Glen) was satisfied everything was 100% watertight, we decided to try again. It did reach my waist and a big wave almost got me, but we made it. The German girl also made it across, but only because her partner jumped back in to help with her pack.
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| Just made it across in time. |
Ice-creams and a cabin for the night at Pakiri campground as the weather had been threatening rain again. Turned out to be a stunner of an evening of course, and about another 9 hikers turned up over the afternoon. We met Courtney a fellow kiwi who we swapped blogs with. She was lovely and it was great to have a decent chat with a fellow New Zealander. A couple of hikers turned up quite late and it makes you wonder whether its a ploy to get out of paying. If no one is in the office, how can you stop a hiker strolling in late? I realise everyone is doing their own walk, but some hikers seem to be doing all they can to avoid paying to sleep. Camping in the bush/forest/farmland where it has been expressly mentioned not to freedom camp due to various reasons. Not a lot can be done about this I guess, but I do wish people would cough up a bit more for our economy. It's a shame as the TA Trust has put so much effort into this trail, providing all the info needed for hikers to find a cheap place to stop for the night.
 |
| Looking back towards Pakiri beach. |
Just before we reached Matakana Valley Road, we checked Guthook again and changed our minds about accommodation that night. We were going to camp somewhere along the next few kms on someones front garden offered to hikers, but the weather was turning again and it had been tough on the muscles, so we rang a place called Matakana Outback and got a cabin there instead. There was a shortcut through the bush right to their driveway, which if we had known it would be the steepest downhill of the entire day, we might not have taken. Once there though it was an amazing night of luxury. Their dog Orca kept popping over for cuddles and we had enough of the afternoon sun left to enjoy it and dry our sweaty clothes (so much for that rain). We watched some old Big Bang Theory reruns with dinner then off to bed.
The next day saw the weather turn yuck again. The rain clouds threatened all day, but only the odd shower actually got us through the dense bush. We had our wet weather gear handy just the same. We had a few kms of road walking to do first then off up into another bush section. We chased a wild goat family up the track for a bit then got right into it. I had a goal of getting to the Dome cafe before 5pm when it closed. Glen was dreaming of hot chips and I was drooling over the nachos I was going to have for dinner. Dome Valley walk (or Doom Valley for some) was tough ups and downs with plenty of mud. Nothing quite as thick as the previous day, but we did have 3 massive summits to get through. I even fell over at one point, which was basically inevitable. In some parts the track was well looked after and we could crank up the pace, but uphill slows me down a lot and downhill in mud takes even longer sometimes.
This was actually the first day I felt physically fitter. It was 18km through tough bush and even though we were tired and sore, we really kept up a great pace and I didnt need to stop as much up the hills as I used to. It doesn't take as long for us to recover our breath now either, we can just go and go and go. This made the day better for me. What made it even better though was that we arrived at the cafe at 4pm and even though my dream of nachos was shattered as they had no mince, we shared a ham and cheese toastie and a fisherman's platter YUM! Then, after we finally managed to cross SH1, it was a short 2km walk up to a grassy patch a very kind farmer has built into his front lawn just for TA hikers!
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| Breakfast in the farmer's shed. |
 |
| A very overgrown track to Nanakoti. |
The next morning we packed up, ate some bacon and eggs that Denise also gave us and then started our last big day of this part of the journey. 18km over Moirs hill and down a couple of different tracks into Puhoi. My good friend Anna was going to meet us there and take us into Orewa for dinner and a night at the campground. Something to look forward to!
We started up a very well formed farm track, but it was uphill again for a few kms and a super humid day. We ended up at the top of Moirs hill for morning tea. Then back down through farmland and paddocks and more paddocks. Out the other side of that rather nice farm, was the third track of the day consisting of the last 5km to Puhoi through bush. I tried very hard to go down the road and stop at the cheese factory instead as the humidity was really getting to me today, but again Glen kept me in check. We crossed a swing bridge (one of many many more to come) and followed the Puhoi walkway up and along the top and then down to the pub.
As usual I was pretty tired by this point, but the track into Puhoi is actually a really nice one. It's a lovely bit of bush and the path is wonderfully maintained! Makes life so much easier when you can look at the scenery, not just where your feet are going. Anna and her husband Jay were already there and after a quick L&P to boost the energy levels, they drove us down into Orewa. Very strange feeling, returning home, but not really as we don't live there anymore....Glen and I showered so we wouldn't have to put Anna and Jay through anymore pain than necessary then sent the men out to hunt and gather dinner. They came back with Sals and it was the best evening sitting in the campground, eating and being with friends after another tough day.
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| Home again! |
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